Fall in Stockton is a beloved part of a year to be photographing nature's beauty.
By Gene Wright
The leaves are colorful and brilliant, skies are clear blue, while the rotating
of the seasons generates vivid, colorful landscapes that are just begging to be
photographed. There are times, even when a photograph contains wonderful fall
colors, the same power of emotion does not happen when viewing the image.
There are a number of methods I used in capturing these Stockton Fall Photos
Adjusting the Exposure Compensation
To make these fall colors a little push and really stand out, I adjusted exposure compensation settings of
my camera. Although newer digital cameras can automatically set the exposure values, better picture quality
is obtained by making manual adjustments. As employing fully automatic settings, lets those brilliant subjects become much darker than their native colors.
I adjusted these exposures, by pressing the control compensate exposure in the direction of the [+] side to capture these scenes more close to their real hues. Conversely, when you photographing dark subjects, a great effective is to compensate in the direction of the [-]. When exposure compensated, the subject brightness showing on the screen will also change.
I got Creative with the Exposures
On a clear sun-drenched day, I shot some of these images of the yellow and red fall colors against a clear blue sky. Although on a cloudy overcast day, try adjusting exposure compensation to provide the feeling of a painting. Move the exposure compensation in the direction of the + (positive) side letting the cloudy sky details dissolve and turn white. As the sky changes to white, the fall colored leaves will show up in the photo as if painted using a white canvas.
Some of these fall leaves stand out by using a dark backdrop
As sunlight is falling upon a tree containing fall leaves, choose a dark background such as a shadowy spot to make the fall foliage really jump out. By photographing your subject in front of a darker background, your exposure environment will end up with a more powerful photo. However, getting the contrast between your subject and your backdrop too high, and you may not obtain the picture your were looking for on your first shot. Try shooting the same scene using different exposure adjustments to get the effect desired.
Use Auto Bracketing mode if it's on your camera. This feature, most often found on many DSLR and later model compact digital cameras, allows your camera to automatically capture a number of images using different exposure compensation settings. Shooting the identical picture at different levels of brightness levels becomes very convenient,
particularly when it's may be difficult to make a decision on exposure settings which are the best. On touch-screen models, this feature is selectable and can adjusted via the cameras' menu. On newer cameras, Bracketing options are located on the MENU screen.
Many DSLR and newer compact cameras allow you control over metering. When contrast between your subject and the background is very high, or if you shoot a picture against strong backlight, employing automatic exposure may get you the best image. In these situations try using SPOT metering mode. With SPOT metering the camera only measures the light in the center of the screen. This feature can be used to measure only the light on a tree
having fall foliage to darken the background and pop out your primary subject of the photo.
Employ a Polarizer Filter to pop the vivid hues:
By employing a circular polarizing filter, you can reduce any stray light mirrored off the tree leaves and pop out the brilliant nature hues of the foliage of the trees and the inherent, vivid blue sky. On some cameras filters cannot directly attached to the lens, although you can usually simply manually hold the filter in the front of the camera lens and get the same reuly. Since using a polarizer filter diminishes the volume of light getting to your camera's sensor, it may be
desirable to set up a tripod to hold the the camera still for longer exposure times.
Be wary of ghosting and flare when shooting directly into backlight:
When photographing a backlit scene, keep any light from directly hitting the lens surface. If this happens, ghosting or flare could occur on the photo. Flare will allow the entire image to seem whitish and at first sight appear to have been overexposed. A phenomenon called ghosting is when pentagon-shaped artifacts show up on a
You can stop light from directly hitting the lens by employing a lens hood, by placing your hand above the lens or camera, or by obstructing the light using a black piece of paper or another type of cover. Also, you relocate to a tree shadow or another shadowy spot.
Make fall colors memorable using Saturation and Enhancement fixes:
After capturing the shot, Photoshop can be used to readjust the levels of saturation. By escalating the saturation level you can produce a more impressive photograph with brighter more vivid colors.
Advanced cameras let you to fine-tune your colors for shooting right on-board the camera. Choose [VIVID] picture function to make the fall colors come out brighter. You can make finer adjustments after choosing [VIVID], by readjusting the saturation. Just select the [RGB] icon on the menu using the arrow pad and rotate the control dial. Most newer cameras feature creative Art Filters that create an even more asserted outcome.
Composition: Experiment with shooting horizontal and vertical images:
Horizontal images leave an impression of open space, whereby vertical pictures provide an impression of more height. Using the identical location, try shooting not just horizontal images, but vertical ones as well.
particularly when the clouds turn dramatic, there are many occasions to exploit the vast height of the fall skies by vertically shooting images. Compare the atmospheric differences between
vertical and horizontal images.
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